WHY BLACK DESIGNERS MATTER!

A Conversation With Fashion Designer Douglas Says

By Jamil Fletcher

Douglas Says approached us a while back about coordinating this issue’s feature on Black fashion designers. An accomplished designer noted for his signature use of color and prints that make a woman look absolutely fabulous, Douglas is also an outspoken advocate for Black representation in all aspects of the fashion industry. We had a chance to chat with Mr. Says to gather his thoughts on the state of the industry today. See below for a portion of our conversation.

SWERV: What inspired you to approach us with this idea to feature Black fashion designers?

Douglas Says:  In the midst of the pandemic, everything has been shut down including one of my annual fashion shows. This gave me a chance to work out my creative energy. Plus, the spirit just brought it to me, so I followed the spirit.

SWERV: The designers you featured are so talented, but our community is not as familiar with them as you would imagine. Why is that the case?

DS: Part of the reason is the lack of access to exposure opportunities. Back in the day, I would get magazine editorial coverage by sending a media package to the Fashion Editors. Today, print magazines are becoming nonexistent. And the editorial space for new designers is often provided as a prize for the contest winners like Project Runway.  

SWERV:  So, what is like to be a Black designer in 2021?

DS: Well, you have different levels of designers. You have local designers, you have Seventh Avenue designers, and international designers. Everything doesn’t apply to everybody.  I’m an independent designer. In my mind, I’m a ready-to-wear designer. My good friend Tracey Africa says that I’m an evening wear designer, but that’s not my focus. I try to do clothes that regular people wear, like to work and not just for special occasions. But the evening wear I display in my shows gets the “oohs” and “ahs” so they get a lot of attention. The sales come from the ready-to-wear.  Business is tough. There are just so many designers these days. In the past, there were only a handful of “good” designers. And people wanted to work with the best designers. Now, even the designers that are “so-so” are getting opportunities.  Years ago, the season that was big for me was prom season between January and June. I was booked solid at that time. Folks would come from all over the country for prom dresses.

SWERV: How do Black designers sustain their work?

DS: As a Black designer, you have to find your own avenue, or it finds you. Some people work in theater doing costumes and alternations, I don’t do alternations because that’s a headache for me. My focus is doing what I love to do, and if you come to me, you are coming for my artistry.

SWERV: So, would you imagine being a more mainstream name in fashion. Why can’t we walk into a department store to buy your clothes?

DS: Well, that starts with backing and a team. Right now, I’m just one person. As an independent designer it’s hard to know what’s going to sell. So, it’s difficult to invest in materials to mass produce items for a line. For me, everything is custom, one-of-a-kind.

SWERV:  So, what are the challenges for Black designers?

DS: Back in the day it seemed easier to find backers. Designers like Willi Smith, Byron Lars, and Lester Hyatt had backers. When you have investors, you can build a conglomerate and mass produce items. Financial backing today continues to be a challenge.

SWERV:  What are your thoughts on Black fashion labels like Sean John, Karl Kani, FUBU, and Phat Farm?

DS: In the company of my friend Audrey Smaltz, I mentioned that those are not “real” clothes. She responded that those are “real” clothes, but that what I make are not “real” clothes. Those jeans, t-shirts, and hoodies are urban gear that everybody wears. I agreed with her that those are everyday “real” clothes. She was correct. Not every woman is looking to wear a wrap dress or a jersey dress.

SWERV:  Back in the 90’s the AIDS epidemic appeared to hit the industry hard. How did that impact the industry at that time?

DS: That’s when we lost Willi Smith, Halston, and Patrick Kelly to the epidemic. Once that happened, the funders started to shift, and looked to invest in more women designers. Insurance became a major element of investment deals.

SWERV: What are your thoughts on the support our designers get from Black consumers?

DS: We’ve been so brainwashed to prefer Gucci, Prada and others as opposed to putting the energy in Black designers. Supporting us, wearing us in your videos, films, etc… Lately, I’ve seen more Black artists intentionally request Black designers. That’s how I ended up dressing Erika Alexander because she insisted on working with Black designers. I would ask Black people to spend your money with Black designers. I don’t think the young people who spend the money really care about helping to support Black designers. If you view what we [designers] do as art you would support our businesses.

SWERV: What is your ultimate goal as a designer?

DS: My answer has always been that I want my own store. A popular area where people can just come and buy my clothes. I’m not particularly concerned with celebrity clients. I’m here for whoever can pay the price on the tag. (smile)

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IG: @DOUGLASSAYS